Cinnamomum breviflora Practical Cultivation Technique

Red knotted chicory, also known as radicchio, is a perennial herb belonging to the Compositae family. It originates from the Mediterranean coasts of Central Asia and North Africa, and is now widely cultivated in Europe and the United States. This variety stands out for its vibrant color, nutritional value, and milder taste compared to regular chicory. As a semi-cold-resistant vegetable, red knotted chicory thrives in cool and humid conditions. Its product is a compact red leaf ball, with an average yield of 1,000 to 2,000 kilograms per acre. Individual balls typically weigh between 0.25 and 0.5 kilograms, though some can reach up to 2 kilograms. During its growth cycle, red knotted chicory requires different temperature conditions at various stages. From the seedling to rosette stage, higher temperatures are essential for good germination and rapid growth. However, during the ball formation stage, a larger temperature difference is beneficial, with cooler nights (below 15°C) helping to enhance color development. High temperatures, especially at night above 20°C, can trigger premature flowering and reduce the quality of the leaf ball. Therefore, it's best to plant this crop in summer or autumn. Winter planting is less affected by temperature but results in lower yields, while spring planting may lead to issues like bolting if not managed properly. **Cultivation Season and Methods** 1. **Autumn Open Field Cultivation:** This is the most common method for growing red radicchio. Early to mid-maturing varieties such as "Autumn" and "Indo-Europe" are typically chosen. In northern China, seeds are sown in mid-July, transplanted in mid-August, and harvested around late October. Sowing too early can result in premature ball formation and poor coloration due to high temperatures. The ideal balling period is from late September to October. 2. **Winter Solar Greenhouse Cultivation:** For winter production, seeds are sown in August, transplanted in September, and harvested from January to February of the following year. **Cultivation Techniques** 1. **Soil Preparation and Fertilization:** Choose well-drained, loamy soil rich in organic matter. For long-term use in greenhouses, adding straw and cow manure helps reduce salt buildup. Red knotted chicory requires moderate fertilization—around 2,000 to 4,000 kg of organic fertilizer and 50 kg of superphosphate per acre. Mix thoroughly, level the ground, and create beds 1.3 meters wide and 8–10 meters long. 2. **Seedling Raising:** Depending on the season and facility, seedlings are raised under controlled conditions. Maintain daytime temperatures between 24–28°C and nighttime temperatures above 15°C. Seedlings usually emerge within 4 days and are ready for transplanting after about 30 days. Use approximately 20 grams of seed per mu. 3. **Transplanting:** Transplant seedlings when they have 5–7 leaves. Spacing varies depending on the variety and season. Early maturing types are spaced 33 cm apart in a square pattern, while medium to late maturing types require 40 cm spacing. Autumn planting allows for more open spacing due to favorable conditions and robust growth. 4. **Post-Planting Care:** In open fields, management is relatively simple. Water immediately after planting, then again after 5–7 days. After irrigation, perform a light weeding and apply 10 kg of urea per acre. During the balling stage, maintain consistent watering and fertilize every 10 days, applying 10–15 kg of nitrogen and potash per acre, in a 1:2 ratio. 5. **Harvesting:** Early maturing varieties are usually ready for harvest 60 days after transplanting, once the ball is fully formed. Harvesting too early results in loose, unmarketable balls, while delayed harvesting can cause rot or bolting, reducing commercial value. **Storage** Red knotted chicory should be stored at 0°C with 90–100% humidity for up to 1–2 months. Each leaf ball can be packed in a paper-lined basket to extend shelf life. A layer of paper between each ball helps prevent damage. Check and clean the storage area every 15 days, removing any spoiled leaves or balls promptly to avoid spreading decay.

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