First, thinning. Begin by removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches, as well as any that are weak, crowded, or growing in undesirable directions. This helps improve air circulation and light penetration. Focus on eliminating the lower, weaker, and less productive branches first, then move to the upper and middle branches. If the tree still appears too dense, consider spacing out the branches so that fruiting branches are spaced 5–6 cm apart. Ensure that the remaining branches are strong, healthy, and capable of producing high-quality fruits.
Second, manage long branches. Leggy shoots that grow along the main branches should be left as extension branches if they are growing in a desirable direction. These can be lightly pruned to control their growth and guide them toward the desired shape. If there are open spaces near these shoots, you can cut them back slightly to encourage the development of fruiting branches, which will help expand the canopy and increase the overall yield. However, any leggy shoots that are not useful should be removed completely from the base.
Third, rejuvenate old fruiting branches. After two years of fruiting, some branches may become less productive due to aging or overuse. To stimulate new growth, make short cuts of about 3–5 cm on these branches. In spring, when new buds appear, select one that is strong and growing in an ideal direction, and use it for training to form a new fruiting branch. This process helps maintain the productivity and vigor of the plant.
Fourth, update fruiting branches. Different varieties ofæž¸æž (Lycium barbarum) have varying fruiting abilities. Some can produce fruit for two seasons, while others may only bear fruit once or produce small, weak fruits at the top. When fruiting branches show signs of weakness—such as brownish shoots or very short growth—they need to be replaced. Typically, you should cut back drooping or bent fruiting branches. For sturdy branches, cut back about half; for weaker ones, remove two-thirds. If the branch is extremely weak, leave only 5–6 cm of the shoot. The goal is to make light, strategic cuts rather than heavy pruning, to encourage healthy regrowth without stressing the plant.
Intramedullary nails are orthopedic internal fixation devices in medical devices. Intramedullary nails consists of main nail,locking screws,cannulated locking screws,blade screws,lag screws and end cap.
The proximal end of the main nail is provided with a proximal locking screw holes, and the surface of the intramedullary nail is provided with more than one long decompression plane, which can be from the proximal end of the intramedullary nail to the distal end.It is one of the most important orthopedic implants.
Intramedullary Nail,Interlocking Nail,Tibia Intramedullary Nail,Femoral Nail
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