The melon vines have strong stems that grow vigorously. On the main vine, the vines spread out, and from these vines, new shoots emerge. If left unpruned, most female vines tend to be weak, while the growth of side vines and lateral branches is usually very strong. Most female flowers develop on the Ziman and Sun vines, while a small number can also appear on the leaves of the main vine under low temperatures.
Due to limited space in greenhouses and high planting density, it's essential to optimize the use of available space to ensure good ventilation, light exposure, and ultimately, high yields and superior quality melons. Pruning is therefore crucial for melon plants grown in sheds.
Pruning involves topping the main vine, removing excess vines, keeping selected ones, retaining necessary leaves, and eliminating tendrils. The primary goal of pruning is to control plant growth by balancing vegetative and reproductive development. Leaves are responsible for producing nutrients, but excessive foliage can lead to nutrient depletion and hinder fruit development. Proper pruning helps maintain an optimal size of the plant, ensuring that neither too many nor too few stems and leaves negatively impact yield or fruit quality. It also promotes flowering and fruit setting, leading to earlier maturity and higher productivity. Additionally, it helps redistribute nutrients more effectively.
During the seedling stage (with 4–5 true leaves), nutrients should be directed toward lateral branches to encourage branching. When fruits begin to set on a branch, the shoot should be pruned to redirect nutrients to the fruit and prevent overgrowth. This process helps the melons grow larger and healthier.
Different pruning techniques are used depending on the variety, cultivation method, soil fertility, and the desired number of fruits. In greenhouses, common methods include single-vine, double-vine, and three-vine pruning.
(1) **Single-Vine Pruning**: This method can involve either the main vine or a side branch as the primary stem. For example, when the main vine has 4–5 leaves, the tip is pinched to promote lateral growth. A strong side vine is kept, while others are removed. At the base, only lateral buds from nodes 11–15 are retained. Female vines are typically pruned to leave fruit at nodes 14–16 in spring, and 15–17 for late-maturing varieties. The main vine is topped when it reaches 22–28 leaves. If multi-level pruning is used, one side bud is left at the top, and all non-fruiting side vines are removed.
(2) **Double-Vine Pruning**: When the main vine has 4–5 true leaves, it is topped to encourage lateral growth. Two strong side vines are selected, and all lower buds (nodes 1–6) are removed. Female flowers are allowed to grow on nodes 7–11, with 1–2 leaves left after topping. Non-flowering vines are removed as they sprout. Each plant is topped when it reaches 20 leaves, leaving two fruits per plant. This method is ideal for large arch greenhouses in spring and autumn, offering high yields but slightly later ripening.
(3) **Three-Vine Pruning**: The main vine is topped when it has 5–6 leaves, and three strong side vines are selected. These are topped at 6–8 leaves, and female flowers are topped with 2–3 leaves. If the foliage becomes too dense, some vines can be removed, leaving around 50 leaves per plant. Two to three fruits are left per plant, making this method suitable for thin-walled melons.
Regardless of the pruning method, several key points must be considered. Pruning should ensure even distribution of stems and leaves to maximize light exposure and space usage. During periods of rapid vine growth, timely pruning is essential to prevent overcrowding. Vines that are growing quickly should be pruned before they become too long. After pollination, seeds should be removed to help the melons grow better. Pruning should be done after 10 AM on sunny days, as early morning or rainy conditions can delay healing and increase the risk of infection. Also, vines are more brittle in the morning, so care should be taken to avoid damaging them.
At the time of fruit enlargement, it's important to retain enough functional leaves to supply nutrients. Leaves produce the most nutrients around 30 days of age, and their role is critical during fruit development. Side vines should not be removed too early, as root growth depends on leaf nutrients. They can be removed once they reach 4–5 cm in length. For side vines that will bear fruit, 1–2 leaves should be left before the fruit sets.
In solar greenhouses, a 10-gauge wire can be installed horizontally at 2–2.2 meters above the ground on the rear pillars, and another near the top of the front pillars. Along each row, wires are placed in a north-south direction, tied between the front and rear columns. Nylon or plastic ropes are used to hang the vines, which can be wrapped around the plants as they grow.
Bamboo poles are often used as supports due to their stability and ease of hanging. These poles are inserted about 10 cm from the base of each plant, aligned with the planting line. Horizontal wires are fixed at 80 cm from the ground and 20 cm below the top of the pole. If no cross wires are present, bamboo poles can be used as tie rods to connect rows. Crossbars are attached to the top of vertical poles to prevent the vines from leaning or collapsing.
Once the vines spread, they are guided upward along the support structures using "8"-shaped rope ties. Before the first horizontal crossbar is reached, the vines are tied. As they grow, they follow the crossbar in the same direction, then continue upward. Care must be taken not to damage tender stems, leaves, or fruits during tying, and the vines should be arranged to allow proper spacing for leaves and fruits.
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