Spring is the best season for cutting propagation of most flowers and trees. Spring seedlings are conducive to the healing of cuttings, rooting, root differentiation, and the development of seedlings that meet certain specifications.
There are two types of flowers suitable for spring cutting propagation: one is the shrubs and evergreen trees that take a long time for rooting, and are not easy to take root, such as cedar, Cypress, Cypress, Sabina, Sabina chinensis, Sabina platyphylla, Sycamore Etc.; the other is the rooting of flowers and trees, such as pomegranate, rose, hibiscus, spring, crape myrtle, cypress, alfalfa, Jinzhou wolfberry, red leaf li, Spiraea, spray snowflake, oleander, silver bud willow, Flowers pomegranate, gardenia, hypericum, horsehair wood, purple magnolia, mimosa, Podocarpus, Begonia, Admiralty, Pyracantha, Mahonia, Southern bamboo, Metasequoia, Cymbidium, Kappa, and Cypress , Cloud Papaver, Boxwood, Phnom Penh Cyclovirobuxine, Coral Tree, Italian Poplar, Qionghua, Snowball, Camellia, Four Seasons Guilin, Phnom Penh Privet, Woody, Wisteria, Campsis, Honeysuckle, Yuli, Wall Tiger, Euonymus fortunei, Red-backed osmanthus, bergamot, Schefflera, Rhododendron, small purple peony, Zhulan, jasmine, ginkgo and so on. For these two types of flowers and trees, the survival rate of spring insertion is generally 85%-95%.
The spring and spring flowers for the ornamental plants should be carried out from the beginning of March to the middle of April. It is not conducive to survival if it is too early or too late. Specifically, the following work must be done.
1. Make a bed of land. In the early spring, the deep-turned nursery is ditched. Generally, the slot is 10 meters long, 1.2 meters wide and 30 centimeters high. Both sides are provided with irrigation ditch and trail ditch. Slightly higher in the middle of the bed and slightly lower in the surroundings to prevent the cuttings from rotting due to the accumulation of water. The soil on the bed should be broken.
2. Shearing treatment. Choose windless weather, cut the middle and upper part of the canopy, free from pests and diseases, and grow robust annual branches. It is best to cut out the germinating branches of the trunk at the base of the tree and cut it to a section of 12-15 cm. Generally, each cutting should have 2-3 plump shoots. Conifers, sassafras, cedar trees and other conifers preferably have apical cuttings, and the lower incisions of the cuttings should be located 0.2-0.5 cm below the nodes or petiole, where nutrient concentration is conducive to healing and rooting. Evergreen broad-leaved shrubs, which retain only the upper 2-4 leaves of each cutting, such as boxwood, coral trees, perennial osmanthus, bergamot, and camellia. Cedars, Cypresses, Podocarpus, and other conifers should be trimmed from the lower cuttings, leaving only the upper needles or scales. The cuttings of the deciduous tree should be cut off at the lower part to facilitate the high growth of the earth after insertion and the rooting of the cutting. Cut 100 bundles of cuttings into bundles and treat the lower incision with 0.05% ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetate solution. Soak for 10 seconds and allow to dry. Wait until the alcohol in the liquid evaporates before cutting.
3. 扦 Insert the bed. Insert the treated cutting into the bed in time. The average row spacing of broadleaf trees is 815 cm, and that of coniferous trees is 510 cm. The depth of the cutting into the soil is 1/3-1/2 of the ear length. If the cuttings are too thin, such as cedar, cedar, etc., you can use a small bamboo stick to poke a hole, and then insert the cuttings into the hole. This will prevent the undercut from forming under the cut, which is very beneficial to survival. After the cutting is completed, use a fine hole sprayer to spray the water on the cutting bed. Make sure that the base of the cuttings is in close contact with the soil so that the incision absorbs the moisture in the soil.
4. Post-insert management. After watering, cover the insulation with a plastic film overhead. When the minimum temperature exceeds 10°C, the film can be removed. During the rooting of the cuttings, the surface of the bed should be kept moist, and the water should be sprayed once every 1-2 days in spring. The water in the ditch should be promptly removed. In early May, due to increased sunshine and higher temperatures, in order to promote the rooting of cuttings, shade should be erected and the number of water sprays increased. When we find weed on the bed, we must remove it in time. When the soil is compacted, use a spade to gently loosen the soil between the rows, but it should not be too deep so as not to loosen the cutting base and affect rooting. Boxwood, hibiscus, pomegranate, hypericum, silver bud willow, mahjong, southern bamboo and other 1-2 months can generally form a good root system, while cedar, cypress, cypress, etc. To form a small amount of root system, such seedlings should be covered with grass and cold before winter and can be transplanted in the fall of the second year.
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