The summer cut of the grapes is based on the winter cuts to make the final adjustment to the amount of sticks left, which is a very important task that determines the yield and quality of the grapes. In the practice of production, many fruit growers have misunderstandings about the grape-and-wheat shears, which are often carried out when the new shoots grow to 7-8 leaves and they can see the inflorescence when it is cut in summer. The germination of grape buds consumes a lot of water and nutrients. Such summer shears will cause twigs to become thin, reduce the yield, and seriously affect economic efficiency. According to my 20 years of cultivation experience, the grape and summer cuts should start from the buds. In general, it should be carried out in 3 separates. The first summer cut took place before the buds sprouted until the leaves emerged. At this time, it will be obvious that the buds on the thin and weak branches of some winter shears will germinate first and often, and some buds on one of the buds will often have 2 to 3 sprouts. Some old strains will often develop some buds from the base. Buds are the most suitable. No tools are needed to wipe the buds. What needs to be wiped off are the buds on the base of the dendrite, the buds on the thin and thin branches, the stunted buds, and the thin and pointed buds on the double buds. This summer shear can erase about 60% to 70% of excess buds. The second summer cuts generally grow to 7 to 8 leaves at the new shoots. The size and strength of the inflorescence are clearly visible on new shoots. The summer shear combined with the binding of new shoots, in the specific operation process according to the variety, fertility, tree potential and planned production, basically determine the new shoots left. For example, the cultivar is a red framed grape and has good soil fertility and a strong tree vigor. It is planned to reach a yield of 2,500 kg and an average panicle weight of 600 g. In this case, there should be 4,100 to 4,200 new shoots per acre. If the garden is to be planted at a spacing of 1.5 meters, it is advisable to leave 10 new shoots per 1 meter of length. The third summer cut is usually carried out when the second tie is tied. In the second summer cut, many branches are often left. In this summer cut, new shoots of inflorescence are left, and fruitless branches are removed. If there are more fruit branches, they should stay strong and stay strong. In the three summer cuts should pay attention to the following questions: First, to stay weak and strong, in order to produce large fruit, big spike. The second is to stay on and prevent the result from moving faster. The third is to keep dense and thin, so that the branches evenly distributed, conducive to air and light. The fourth is to stay early to stay late, because buds that sprout early are mostly buds that remain on thin branches. Fifthly, wherever there is a lack of results, even the latent buds sent out by the roots are left to cultivate the next year's results and fill the void. Sixth, the large-spike type remained less, and the spikelet-type variety remained. In general, the varieties with a head of 400 grams or less can hold 18 to 20 new shoots per square meter, and those with a spike of more than 400 grams have 8 to 12 new shoots per square meter.
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