Feeding methods The main methods used by people to keep their cockroaches are the box-holding method, cylinder-holding method, and pool-keeping method. No matter which method is adopted, it is necessary to create gaps and nests in which the roosters inhabit invisible, and the size is moderate, which not only ensures that there is a place for activity, but also ensures that the keeper is easily managed. First, the box method can be used to add 1.5 cm thick wooden planks into the wooden box, generally 50 cm wide, 100 cm long and 40 cm high. Place an iron or plastic yarn box cover over the box opening. A layer of food plastic film is used to keep the inner wall smooth. Place 5 to 15 cm thick feeder soil on the bottom of the box. Each wooden box is equipped with 20 tiles. Five pieces are placed in a stack and the tiles are washed and sucked in enough water. In the middle, about 2 centimeters of space is reserved for the roosters to live in. There are no tiles in the middle of the box. It is both a canteen and a place for evening activities. This kind of wooden box can raise 200 to 300 medium-sized oysters per square meter, or 100 to 150 large oysters. The surrounding fiberboard can also be replaced with a plain woven mesh made of vinyl, forming a cage shaped like a mosquito net. This type of cage is light and can be stacked to form a three-dimensional cage, saving space. Second, the cylinder raising method with glass or tile cylinder, the general bottom area of ​​50 cm 40 cm, about 30 to 40 cm high. Too few cylinders raise too much and cylinders are too big to move. Place a layer of crushed stone on the bottom of the tank, cover the ground with a layer of 5-15 cm feeder soil, and stack the tiles on the soil surface. The height of the tile should be 10-15 cm below the cylinder port, and cover the iron gauze on the cylinder port. A small amount of cylinders can be used for feeding, but the cylinder ventilation is poor ventilation, the bottom is prone to accumulation of water, tendon is easy to get green moss, so feeding should control the breeding density. In addition, attention should be paid to controlling the humidity of the cultivating soil. When the humidity exceeds 20%, dry bred soil should be replaced. Third, the pool of law 1. Site selection The location of the aquaculture pond should be selected on the slope of Xiangyang. It is required to avoid the accumulation of water in the rainy season and avoid the direct blowing of the north wind in winter to ensure a warm microclimate. 2. General structure of aquaculture ponds The common aquaculture ponds are rectangular, and the size of the pond area can be selected according to the specific circumstances. The bottom is best made of brick and cemented with sand and sand. The bottom of the brick has good water seepage ability and is better than concrete floor. After the wall of the pool is made of brick, the bottom of the pool is filled with a layer of “raw soilâ€. In the inner wall of the wall surface of the soil, the glass is plastered with cement or a plastic film is put on it. The addition of a smooth surface material is intended to effectively prevent the escape of pool walls. Therefore, when inlaying the joints of each piece of glass or film, it must be done carefully. Otherwise, even if it is not possible to climb the smooth surface of the inner wall, it is possible to escape with a line of one side climbing the rough longitudinal seams. Out of the pool. The “raw soil†in the aquaculture pond should be a soil that does not contain a large amount of farmyard manure. The soil is relatively pure and contains less pathogenic microorganisms, which is less likely to cause pollution within the pond. Some folks have added fertilizers such as cow dung and some chicken feathers and chicken bones to the soil inside the pool to use as worms for food. In fact, this is not a good idea. Because these added substances are not essential nutrients, they have created conditions for the breeding of microorganisms (such as bacteria and molds), impeding environmental hygiene in the pool and causing pollution. The black mold on the earthworm is related to environmental pollution. The height of the inner wall of the mosaic glass must reach 30-40 cm. At present, the height of the wall of the breeding pond (ie, the height of the pool wall above the floor of the pond) is designed to be 40 centimeters, and some designs are as high as 75 to 100 centimeters. The reason why the height of the wall is doubled is to prevent the rats from invading. In some breeding ponds, there is a feeding ring with a width of 15 to 20 centimeters around the surrounding wall of the pond, and a shallow ditch with a width of 12 cm and a depth of 1.5 cm is opened around the feeding ring to provide feeding for drinking water. local. At the same time, setting up a shallow ditch can also prevent the dragonfly from escaping. 3. In the past, the construction of the inhabited bed was only to pile up some clods in the wall, and later it was replaced with shreds and broken tiles in the pool as a roosting bed. It has only recently been used to build a more regular brick nest (habitat bed). This is a big improvement. A vertical nest can be built in a pool and can be constructed in two forms. One is a full brick, and the other is a horizontal-vertical brick. However, according to experimental observations, the number of individuals who move away from the nest during the night is the total number of both. There is a clear difference, that is, obviously from the nest of the full-lying brick, there are few nests from the lying-up brick. Presumably, this may be related to the difference in the area of ​​use of the structural forms of the two nests. Because the full-use brick nest has a large effective use area, and is easy to use and safe, it has a large number of occupants, and the effective use of the nest-standing brick nest is much smaller. The vertical space can only be crawled and is not suitable for living. The reason. Therefore, it is advisable to use a full-lying brick type when constructing a vertical nest. Due to the high cost of old-style nests, some additional facilities are needed for shade, rain, and rodents prevention. Therefore, a new type of nest with low cost and no additional facilities was designed. The cross section of this new type of nest is tower-shaped. It is made of bricks and blanks. The structure is made of horizontal bricks, as shown in Figure 4-1(C). The outside bricks (24 cm, 12 cm, 5 cm) are used. The same size of adobe is used internally to create three-dimensional nests of different sizes and layers. The outer layer made of bricks is not afraid of the rain, and the narrow gap is about 1 cm. It can be used to move in and out, and it can also prevent the intrusion of rodents. The use of adobe for internal use is not only cost-effective, but also its thermal insulation. In the cooling season, the beak can move from outside to inside or from top to bottom and gather at the bottom of the nest. When the winter comes, you can also use straw, etc. to cover the outside. When it is wintering, it can be covered with insulation on the outside. This type of tower nest can be large or small, and it is better to farm large numbers outdoors. In order to reduce costs, such nests do not use glass devices to prevent the escape of cockroaches, but use the ditch method. On the bottom of bricks and cement joints, spread a layer of bricks, do not wipe the joints for ventilation or water, call it the base of the vertical nest. Ditches are built around the base, about 10 cm deep (equivalent to the thickness of two bricks) and about 12 cm wide. The outside and bottom of the ditch are hung with cement for water storage, control of the water level, and prevention of escape. The depth of water is usually controlled at about 5 cm. In the spring drought, the water level can be raised to 7-8 cm deep. The water in the ditch can flow into the gaps in the base to maintain the proper humidity in the nest. The main advantage of this type of tower nest is that the nest has a large amount of contents and is more economical and practical than the cultivation pond built in the past. It can be further improved in application. Production of cultivating soil 1. Production of cultivating soil When cultivating artificially, the cultivating soil is indispensable for quail life, because the cultivating soil can provide a comfortable residence for earthworms. In winter, it can be kept warm and summer can be avoided. At the same time, wolfberry can also absorb water and nutrients from the bred soil. Cockroaches have a strong adaptability to cultivating soil. Sandy soil and loam soil can be used. However, the cultivating soil must be loose, fertile and moist. Therefore, vegetable garden soil is best for cultivating soil, and clay should not be used for cultivating soil because clay is easy to compact. Difficult to enter the inside, before the compaction due to sticky, it will stick to the feet and mouthparts of the clams, affecting clam crawling and feeding activities. First, dig up the vegetable garden soil where no pesticides or chemical fertilizers have been contaminated, then mash it up and remove the impurities, stones, tiles, etc. from the soil, then expose it to sunlight and sterilize it to kill the ants in the soil. Insects and eggs, as well as pathogens and molds, are used to reduce the pests and diseases of the cockroach and dried after use. Second, the use of grazing soil When using irrigating soil to sprinkle water to regulate the humidity, water content is generally 10% to 20%, in the winter and the rainy season, the humidity is low, the summer humidity is higher. Small quail feeding soil moisture should be slightly smaller, while large quail should be slightly larger. In addition, the humidity of the raising soil in the delivery room is also greater. Therefore, in the rearing process, less water is sprayed when it is wet, and more water is sprayed when it is dry. In addition, when spraying, try not to spray water on the oysters, especially the hatching quail and the newly hatched quail so as to prevent the eggs from becoming wet and susceptible to mildew and incubate the larvae. Excited while cold, sick and dead. The thickness of the rearing soil varies depending on the temperature, which can be 8 cm thick in spring and 5 cm in summer. It should be thickened to 10-15 cm in winter when the temperature is low. Under normal circumstances, it is replaced every spring. Raise the soil and do not change it regularly. Normally, the soil can be properly added after the excrement is removed. However, the diseased soil must be replaced.
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